This is a so-called treccia, or braid, made from water buffalo milk. We'll taste mozzarella and ricotta di bufala, freshly made. You simply can't imagine the difference.
It looks like an innocent lake, but it is the hexagonal basin of the emperor Trajan's new port at the mouth of the Tiber. It's about ten minutes from FCO, Leonardo da Vinci airport.
Façade of the former slaughterhouse in the Testaccio quarter. Across the street from the New Testaccio Market and the curious pottery mountain, it represents one of the pillars of cucina romanesca, the traditional cooking of the city of Rome, whose story we'll spend most of a day exploring. And tasting.
Roman globe artichokes, both trimmed and untrimmed. Trimming the artichoke Roman-style belies everything you've heard about Roman food being "simple." Simple like a Chanel suit, we say. We'll taste them two ways, at two different restaurants from two different traditions, both pure Roman. We'll have them braised with mentuccia, a sort of mint, in Testaccio, and fried whole "alla giudia" in the Ghetto. You won't have to choose which you like better. We'd find it impossible.